Chela Dadyborjori
Author: Ian Fuller
Chela dadyburjori is a delightful little fish that comes and from Southeast Asia: Burma, Cochin and Kerala. It is very active and inhabits the upper areas of the aquarium, they are a naturally shoaling fish and are best kept in groups of at least eight or ten. Their brilliant blue spots and central body stripe make them very attractive.
Because of their small size, which is no more than forty millimetres total length they should only be kept with fish that are of there own size or have a very peaceful nature. Species like The Danios, and the smaller species of Rasboras such as heteromorphus (Harlequins) or hengeli, neon and cardinal tetras are very compatibleBeing a farley small species of fish large aquariums are not needed to keep them, a standard 24"x 15"x 12" (15 Gallon) aquarium would be ideal. They do however like plenty of security to be at their best therefore a very well planted environment would suit them best, fine leaved plants such as Cabomba, or the grassy looking Sagittarias would do very well. The added cover of an area of Ricia would also give them that little extra sense of security.
Their feeding requirements are easily accommodated, as they will eat all manner of commercially prepared flake foods provided that the particles are not too large. Occasional
feedings of small sized live foods such as newly hatched Brine Shrimp or sifted Daphnia would really enhance their colours and bring them into tiptop condition.
These are a fish that are reasonably easy to breed, but this would need a separate smaller aquarium to make the attempt successful. All that is needed are:
- Aquarium - approximately 10"x 8"x 8"
- 100w heater stat - with the temperature set at 76-78°F
- A piece of course netting - that has holes small enough not to let the adult fish swim through.
Place the tank in a reasonably well lit position that will receive some of the early morning sunlight, but not enough for it to affect the temperature of the tank water.
Fill the tank to approximately three quarters full using water from the tank that the adult fish are housed in, and drape the netting across the tank and into the water. If
the netting can be sewn into a box shape so that it fits just inside the tank then all the better, the net needs to be submerged so that the bottom is about two to three inches
below the surface, the sides can be held in place to stop it from moving by using a couple of plastic cloths pegs.
It will be reasonably easy to see when the fish are in breading condition, as the males will be showing their very best colours and will be pestering the females, who in turn
will generally be a little larger and have a more rounded plump appearance. When you decide that the fish look ready to breed, that evening remove equal numbers of males and females and put them in the smaller spawning tank, having first made sure that the water temperature in the spawning tank is the same temperature or a degree or two higher.
Once the fish have been put into the spawning tank place a cover over the top to stop any of the fish from jumping out, the cover can be a piece of glass, plastic or another piece of fine netting. The following morning, after about an hour of the early morning sunlight the adult fish should be removed and returned to their original tank. At this point a small air stone should be put into the spawning tank with just enough air coming from it to keep the surface water on the move.
Leave the netting in place because the fry when they hatch, which is usually within twenty-four hours will attach themselves to it. When the fry are free swimming they are almost impossible to see and should be fed with very fine foods such as very dilute Liquifry, this I have found is best administered by mixing six or seven drops in half a pint of aquarium water in a clean jar or bottle, insert a piece of airline tube into the jar/bottle and keep it in place with an elastic band or a piece of masking tape, on the other end of the tube fit one way air control valve.
Place the jar/bottle on top of the spawning tank so that the control valve is just above the water level, open the
valve a little at a time until a droplet forms and drops into the tank about every five minutes or so, the time between drops is relatively unimportant but if it can be regulated so that the contents of the jar/bottle lasts for most of the day it means that the fry have a constant supply of food all day.
The most important thing to do next is to change a little water every day, this should be at least equal to the amount of feed water that has been put in. the use of small bore siphon is best and the water should be removed from the bottom of the tank as this is were all the waist matter will accumulate, where as the fry will almost certainly be up near the surface or hanging on the sides of the netting.
After the first few days the fry will start to grow quite rapidly and will be seen as tiny little black splinters. By the time the fry are a week old they should be able to take very fine powdered flake food of which there are several good brands on the market. Small amounts of micro worm are also a good food at this stage of growth, but just enough for them to eat in a few seconds, because what ever they miss will fall to the bottom and help to foul the water.
Copyright Pets Parade Ltd. 2000
Other articles by Ian Fuller
- Correct Temperature for Catfish
- Corydoras 2, Banded Corydoras
- Corydoras amapaensis, Nijssen
- Corydoras Sanchesi
- Corydoras, From Small beginings
- Corydoras, The Boys and the Girls
- Dwarf Cory and Pygmy Cory
- Identifying Corydoras
- Starting with Corydoras
- Tail spot Corydoras